Giada De Laurentiis's Filipino Chicken Adobo, Cultural Appropriation and the White Savior
"Turn on the Food Network right now," Jenny texted me, "Giada's making chicken adobo." "FILIPINO chicken adobo?"
I was puzzled when I turned on Ms. De Laurentiis's show. I've watched her Everyday Italian cooking shows which focus on Italian cuisine made simple. So I was a little surprised to see Giada cooking Filipino chicken adobo on the "Big Game" episode of her new show about entertaining at home, Giada at Home.
How is chicken adobo related to the Big Game? When I think of the Big Game, I see a buffet of typical finger foods like pigs in a blanket, chips and salsa, and hot wings before and during football game between two bitter rivals on a large screen TV with a bunch of my friends. This is a very American practice. Filipino-American families bring Filipino food to a lot of other American traditions, including holidays like Thanksgiving. We serve our roasted turkey and stuffing side by side with pancit and dinuguan. But chicken adobo just doesn't make sense at a big game party when everyone is eating finger food. How about serving lumpia, either fried or fresh? Those are Filipino finger foods that actually make sense for serving at the big game.
Were Giada and her big game partygoers eating adobo with their hands? In the episode's commercial b-roll interlude, Giada's husband and male friends tossed footballs around in the backyard while Giada was in the kitchen cooking (another image I take issue with). I imagined all the lovely chicken adobo sauce getting all over the football seams. That sauce should go on some rice and in someone's mouth, not all over a football, damn it. Oh, it's a shame to waste that Filipino chicken adobo sauce. That liquid gold. That manna.
Unless Giada provided her party guests with washing bowls? As in many cultures, Filipinos traditionally eat food with our hands - magkakamay. My lola - God rest her soul - always ate everything with her hands. She had a washing bowl next to her plate to clean her hands before and after the meal. Now that would be an authentic Filipino food experience.
Let's talk about this recipe. I am not a chef, I am not a food anthropologist, I am a home cook - this isn't anything personal, Ms. De Laurentiis, if you're reading: I'm a big fan and I love your food porn. Notwithstanding all due respect to Giada as a chef - I was a little appalled at some of her methods in the recipe. First, she used chicken stock. Why use prepared stock from a can when the dark meat, bone-in chicken (a choice I whole-heartedly agree with) has its own blood, marrow, skin and fat and cartilage to make its own broth? The stock is a timesaver, but chicken adobo is a "set it and forget it" dish that only needs sit and stew, and a stir only required every now and again. One can also use a pressure cooker if you are really hungry, or a slow cooker if you want a truly low-maintenance, however time-consuming, meal. Filipino chicken adobo is a dish that leaves one time to do other household chores, or maybe even wander into the backyard and throw around the football with the boys. Yes, I am a woman who can BOTH throw down in the kitchen AND throw a tight spiral. Don't you forget it.
Cooks, if you're going to go through the trouble of cooking dark meat chicken on the bones, then put those bones et al. to good use, please.
Giada used arrowroot or cornstarch to thicken up the sauce. Another time saver. But the sauce doesn't need to be thickened. It can be sabaw - thin like broth. Other cuisines use flour or starch to thicken up the sauces. For me, though, in Filipino chicken adobo, using a thickener feels wrong. I say, cook the sauce down with the lid off for highly concentrated goodness, or leave it as a broth. Either way, the resulting sauce goes well over rice, which leads me to my number one problem with Giada's Filipino chicken adobo.
She did not serve the adobo with rice. A thickening agent for the sauce is unnecessary because chicken adobo is supposed to be served with rice. This is Giada's most egregious crime. It's like having Ethiopian wat without njera, or Indian daal without naan. It just shouldn't happen that way. While I like cornbread as much as the next person, Filipino food is made for rice. One of the original seven wonders of the world is the Ifugao Rice Terraces, after all: a major source of pre-Hispanic and indigenous Filipino cultural pride. Any Filipino household will have a container of rice and a rice cooker. A common question in a Filipino household is "Ano ba ang ulam natin?" which literally means, What are we eating today with rice? Serving the adobo without rice led many of Giada's Filipino chicken adobo recipe commenters to ask why so much sauce was made with the dish. The sauce is there to put on the rice, to flavor it, to extend the heartiness of the meal, stretch out the flavor of the food to sustain one for a long, hot day in the tropics. But if there's no rice, you wouldn't know that, would you?
In her other show, Everyday Italian, Giada gives a little bit in every episode about where the ingredients and preparation styles of each dish come from regionally, and usually along with a family story. You learn a little everyday about Italian cooking so that after a while, I feel like I know a fair amount about their culture as a result. That luxury is not afforded to Filipino food. I sent the link to Giada's recipe to my mom, several aunts and other Filipino cooks I know, to find out what they thought of it. One of my Filipina friends sent me this video in response:
Shudder. Now that... That is appropriating at its white savior-iest.
We who write and create content about cultures other than our own must do so with respect and humility. Give the proper historical and contemporary context. Don't exoticize, fetishize. Or just don't go there at all. Because if you do, you just end up disrespecting and not doing your job well. And at worst, you sound like a racist. These are our responsibilities, especially the bigger the platform, the larger the stage, the more numerous the audience.
I'm glad that the Filipino National Dish has found its way to Giada's kitchen. But as one commenter said, "I can't wait until one of the Food Network stars takes on dinuguan..." because after all food is culture. Our food reflects the Filipino people's diverse history of struggle, resistance, colonization and of migration. Filipino culture is about resourcefulness. In Filipino cooking, we use every part of the animal down to its very blood.
This is not just about some good tasting chicken.
- What is Your Favorite Filipino Street Food? (sarahlynnpablo.com)
- Is it Fair for Chefs to Cook Other Cultures’ Foods? (gilttaste.com) Editor Francis Lam and chef/writer Eddie Huang do a fantastic job of dissecting culture, food, appropriation and appropriate-ness in this really smart and funny article/discussion. Thanks to Molly Adams of Vocalo.org 89.5FM for the heads up! A must read!
- Cook This: Filipino Chicken Adobo (sarahlynnpablo.wordpress.com)
- Chicken Adobo, recipe courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis (foodnetwork.com)
- The White Savior Industrial Complex by Teju Cole (theatlantic.com)
- Pancit Parade (theasiangrandmotherscookbook.wordpress.com)
- Lumpia (Filipino Spring Rolls) Recipe (rasamalaysia.com)
- Fresh Lumpia (Lumpiang Sariwa) (kusinanimanang.com)
- D is for Dinuguan (Pork Blood Stew) (blog.junbelen.com)